11. April 2012 · Comments Off on Granny Clarke · Categories: Domestic · Tags: , , , , , ,

Granny Clarke was the mother of my mothers’ dearest friend from the time that JP, my next-youngest brother and I were small children,  before my sister Pippy was born, and my parents were living in a tiny rented cottage in the hills part of Beverly Hills – a house on a dirt road, with the surrounding area abundant in nothing much else but chaparral, eucalypts and rattlesnakes. Mom and her friend, who was eventually of such closeness that we called her “Auntie Mary” met when Mom began to attend services at a Lutheran congregation in West Hollywood, rather than endure the long drive to Pasadena and the ancestral congregation at Trinity Lutheran in Pasadena.

 Auntie Mary Hammond was a little older than Mom, with four sons, each more strapping than the other, in spite of Auntie Mary’s wistful hopes for one of them to have been a girl. The oldest were teenagers, the youngest slightly younger than JP  . . .  although Paulie was as large and boisterous as his older brothers and appeared to be more my contemporary. They lived all together with Auntie Mary Hammonds’ mother, Granny Clarke, in a townhouse in West Hollywood, an intriguing house built on a steeply sloping street, up a flight of stairs from the concrete sidewalk, with only a tiny garden at one side, and the constant background noise and bustle of the city all around, not the quiet wilderness of the hills, which JP and I were more used to.  But there was one thing we had in common with Paulie and his brothers— an immigrant grandparent with a curious accent and a long career in domestic service inSouthern California.

It is a little known curiosity, outside Southern California (and maybe a surprise to even those inside it, in this modern day) that there was once a thriving and very cohesive British ex-pat community there; one that revolved around the twin suns of the old and established wealthy families, and the slightly newer movie business – united in their desire for employment as high-class and supremely competent domestic service, or just residence in a place offering considerably nicer weather. They all met on Sundays at Victor McLaughlin Park, where there were British-rules football games, and even cricket matches, all during the 20ies and 30ies. (My maternal and paternal grandfathers may even have met there, twenty years before their son and daughter resolved to marry their respective fortunes together).

All unknowing, my own Grandpa Jim and Auntie Mary’s mother, Granny Clarke, represented the poles of that lonely expat community. Grandpa Jim worked for nearly three decades for a wealthy, well-established Pasadena family of irreproachable respectability  . . .  and Granny Clark, for reasons that may be forever unknown,  took it into her head to work for “those Hollywood people.” According to my mother, who took a great interest in Granny Clarke and held her in considerable reverence, this was an irrevocable career move. In the world of domestic service in Southern California back then, once a domestic had “Hollywood” people on the professional resume, they were pretty well sunk as far as the other respectable employers were concerned. It is all rather amusing at this 21st century date to discover that the Old Money Pasadena/Montebello  People looked down on the New Money Los Angeles People, who all  in turn and in unison looked down on the very new Hollywood People  . . .  who had, as legend has it, arrived on a train, looking for nice weather and a place to film those newfangled moving picture thingies without being bothered by an assortment of … well, people that did not have their best economic interests at hand, back on the Other Coast.

So, while Granny Clarke might have been originally advised that she was committing professional suicide by casting her fortunes with “those Hollywood People,” it turned out very well in the end for her, even though she appeared, personally, to have been the very last likely person to take to the waters of the Tinseltown domestic pool with any enthusiasm. She was a being of the old breed, a stern and unbending Calvinist, the sort of Scots Lowlander featured in all sorts of 19th century stories; rigidly honest and a lifelong teetotaler, fearlessly confident in the presence of those who might have assumed themselves to be her social and economic betters, honest to a fault  . . .  and thrifty to a degree that my mother (no slouch in that department herself) could only genuflect towards, in awe and wonder. One of the first things that I remember Mom telling me about Granny Clarke was that she would carefully melt and re-mold the half-consumed remnants of jelled salads, pouring the liquid into an even smaller mold, and presenting a neat appearance at a subsequent meal. Neither Mom nor her own mother, Granny Jessie, ever had felt obliged to dress up leftovers as anything else than what they were, but Granny Clarke was a consummate professional.

Her early employers, so Mom related to me, were so enormously and touchingly grateful not to be abused, cheated and skinned economically, (or betrayed to the tabloids and gossip columnists) that no matter how personally uncomfortably they might have felt in the presence of someone who was the embodiment of sternly Calvinistic disapproval of their personal peccadilloes, Granny Clarke was fully and generously employed by a long sequence of “Hollywood people” for the subsequent half-century. Granny Clarke managed to achieve, I think, a certain ideal, of being able to tolerate in the larger arena, while disapproving personally, and being respected and valued in spite of it all. She was painfully honest about household accounts, and ran the kitchen on a shoestring, buying the least expensive cuts  . . .  and with magical skill, conjuring the most wonderful and richly flavored meals out of them.

She was for a time, employed by Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks at the legendary Pickfair mansion, before moving on to her longest stretch of employment, as housekeeper and cook for the dancer and star, Eleanor Powell. According to Mom, she only and regretfully left service with Ms. Powell after the formers’ marriage to Glenn Ford. The impetus was that Granny Clarke collected stamps and so did Mr. Ford, and after the marriage of Mr. Ford and Miss Powell, Granny Clarke no longer had an uncontested pick of the many exotic stamps that came in attached to Miss Powell’s fan mail. She went to work for James Mason, instead. Presumably, he didn’t grudge her the stamps from his fan mail.

In retirement, she lived with her daughter and son in law, and their four sons, which is when I knew her. We were all only aware in the vaguest way that she had been the housekeeper to the stars; that all paled besides the wonderful way she cooked, and the way she cosseted us smaller children. I wish I had thought to ask for more stories about Hollywood in her time, for she must have been a rich fund of them.  One hot summer day, when we were at their house for dinner, Mom was not feeling very well, and when she confessed this, Granny Clarke said, sympathetically, “Oh, then I’ll fix you some poached eggs in cheese sauce.”

It sounded quite revolting to Mom – I think she may have been pregnant with my younger sister Pippy – but when Granny Clarke set down a  beautifully composed dish of perfectly poached eggs, bathed in a delicately flavored cheese sauce, Mom was able to eat every bite, and keep it down, too. She had never tasted anything quite so delicious, and when she said so, Granny Clarke allowed as how her poached eggs in cheese sauce had been a favorite among certain guests at Pickfair. Those movie moguls and directors and that, she said, all had ulcers and stomach upsets, through being so stressed … but they were all, to a man, very fond of her poached eggs and cheese sauce.

 

09. April 2012 · Comments Off on One Pan Wurst Supper · Categories: Domestic

One of my oldest best-used cookbooks is Barbara Swain’s Cookery for 1 or 2, which I bought about the time I moved from the military barracks into my own teensy apartment. I may have bought it before I moved out, since I was always cooking my own meals in the barracks kitchen. The hours that I worked prevented me from eating at the dining hall – and food there at best was institutional.  The great thing about the cookbook was that every recipe was scaled for exactly one or two servings. The pound-cake recipe made a tiny 3 x 7 inch loaf of butter cake; the carrot cake recipe made exactly half a dozen cupcakes. Everything was perfectly scaled, simply prepared and made from fresh ingredients … and I am fairly sure that when I bought my now-battered copy, it was one of just a few ‘cooking for one or two’ cookbooks on the market.

And since I’ve written The Adelsverein Trilogy, and getting involved in so many ethnic German activities, we have begun to have a deep appreciation for excellent sausages, like those from Granzin’s Meat Market in New Braunfels … and for the many delightful ways to cook cabbage. My English Granny Dodie prepared it by lightly steaming chopped cabbage until it was just barely cooked, then tossing it with melted butter, cracked pepper and bits of crumbled bacon. I don’t know where she picked up this delicious heresy; the traditional English way of cooking cabbage is to boil it to death for many hours.

But the traditional German way is to make sauerkraut out of it; basically, salted and pickled – the way to make a green vegetable last through the dark months of a northern winter – and so I have come to explore the many faces of red and green cabbage. In Cookery for 1 of 2 there is one recipe for a one-pan wurst and sauerkraut dinner, which I adapted a little, by adding two quartered red potatoes, which essentially cooks your complete dinner in a single covered pan.

Heat 1 Tbsp oil, bacon drippings, or render one thin slice of salt-pork cut in small dice, in a medium saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot (or the salt-pork rendered) add ¼ cup minced onion and sauté until tender.  Add 1 8-oz. can or 1 cup of well-drained sauerkraut,  2 teaspoons brown sugar, 1/3 cup of dry white wine, beer, water – or (my addition) homemade chicken or vegetable broth, 1/8 teaspoon salt,  ¼ caraway seeds and a twist of fresh-ground black pepper. The original recipe says to cover and simmer for half an hour, then add 4 wieners or 2 knackwursts and simmer for another fifteen minutes. For my version, I add two or four smoked brats – it depends on the size of the brats and if they have been frozen – and two red potatoes, cut in quarters, cover and simmer the whole shebang for half and hour to forty minutes. The potatoes should be done, the sausages cooked through and the broth reduced and absorbed into the vegetables. Serve with a bit of whole-grain mustard on the side, and a salad of fresh garden greens. Total Teutonic bliss achieved … and only one cooking pot to wash. Yep, it doesn’t get much better than this … not until I start to make home-made sauerkraut…

03. April 2012 · Comments Off on Further Experiments in D-I-Y Food · Categories: Domestic

I went through a phase like this once before, when we were stationed in Utah for a couple of years. The house that we lived in had a garden patch out in the back – which was customary for older houses, and a couple of bearing fruit trees – also customary. In the case of our house, the fruit trees consisted of about fifteen apricot shrubs along the southern fence line of a deep but rather narrow back yard, and an aged cherry tree towards the back of the property. I loved that house, incidentally. The other long fence line was lined with lilac shrubs, which produced heavy bunches of dark purple, white and pale lavender flowers for about two weeks in spring. I am certain that it was the cherry tree which sold me on renting the little house in the first place … but as delicious as the best of the apricot trees were – and two or three of them did produce huge, meltingly-sweet and flavorful fruit –  there would be a lot of them. In fact, that part of the yard was mined with several layers of hard, blacked and barely decayed apricot pits from past seasons. There were more than I could ever eat, or dry or make jam out of, or even bring in sacks to work to give away.

Because everyone else at work lived in the same kind of neighborhood; the best that we could do was to trade sacks of seasonable fruit, and vegetables to people who had different fruit trees in their yards. And preserve, dry or freeze what you could. It was an atavistic impulse, and also part of the culture of Utah, settled as it was by members of the LDS church. It was encouraged; one of those done things, like Lutherans bringing lime Jell-O salad and tuna-noodle bake to pot-luck luncheons. This resulted in the local ZCMI department store chain having mind-bogglingly extensive housewares departments, and bulk staples in the fifty to a hundred pound sack range pretty freely available. What can I say? It was in the water, or something. I came away from that assignment with a standing freezer, a dehydrating unit (with additional trays), several boxes of Ball jars in assorted sizes, and a Kitchenaid mixer. All these items I still have, and lately we have begun to put to use again.

I used to say that if you had champagne tastes and a beer budget, there were three alternatives available to you: learn to like beer, drink mineral water six nights a week and champagne on the seventh … or learn to make champagne. If you like the high-end stuff, but can only afford the cheap and usually horrible – learning to make it yourself is about the only alternative there. So in recent years, we have branched out to experimenting with home brewing of beer and wine, and making our own cheese, with very pleasing results, although my barely-barely-twenty year old Texas tract house could use a good portion of the storage capacity of that little, sixty-year-old Utah house had, what with the root cellar, larder and cupboards everywhere. (No kidding – there were built-in cupboards everywhere!)

Now, what with reviving the garden in the back yard, and with success at the brewing and cheese-making, now my daughter wants to branch out. She bought a canning kettle and some other home-canning things last week, and searched out my collection of Ball jars, and we’re back at it. One can only eat so much jam and jelly, and I am not interested in exploring the many ways that you can get botulism from home-canning, or investing in a pressure-cooker. So, most of our home-canning ventures will be in doing pickles, relishes, sauerkraut and other high-acid content things which can be done safely in an ordinary kettle. This will leave us only one problem … where to store the finished products. Seriously, we’re running out of room.

14. March 2012 · Comments Off on Hurrah for the Red, White and Blue-Bonnets! · Categories: Domestic

It’s coming on to spring in the Texas Hill Country … and time for pictures of bluebonnets! (Enjoy)

The character in To Truckee’s Trail who goes by the name “Dog” is actually a real dog – she belongs to my daughter. She is actually a boxer-who-knows-what mix, not a mastiff as I described her (although she could very well have a portion of mastiff in the mix.) She does have a white splotch on her nose and at the end of her tail… and she is very loyal, but not quite as obedient and bright as “Dog”. Still – if I am writing a story, I get to make it my way, right?