So, having decided to update my author ‘drag’ — that is, a bit of eye-catching something to wear when doing an event — I found a pattern for an Edwardian-style suit; a straight long skirt and jacket at a Hancock Fabric store. Yes, one of those which is going out of business, sadly. Yes, the bargains are nice — but this will put us down to one single chain fabric store, and the limited selections at Hobby Lobby and Michaels . Yes, I am old-school enough to have gone into absolute mourning when a local San Antonio institution, Scrivener’s – which was an eccentric and upscale vendor of hardware, stationary, gifts, hardware, housewares and who knows what else — closed out the fabric department, and then within a year or two, closed down entirely. They had marvelous fabrics, and quality notions and buttons – and oh, heck – I am getting weepy just recalling. No, I couldn’t afford much of their very best – but they had quality, in the old-fashioned way, and I was viewed with affection and respect by their salesladies, as I was one of the very few of their customers who tacked the extremely difficult Vintage Vogue designer patterns. They always did well by me, when I had a sewing project.
But anyway – the Edwardian-style suit; that will need the appropriate Edwardian hat to go with, and just this weekend I was able to get cracking on that, starting with a wide-brimmed black felt number manufactured in China that someone must have bought for me a good few years ago; my daughter, possibly, when she was stationed in California. I remember having to wear it on the flight home, where once arrived, it went into the closet to emerge … possibly not until now.
The nice thing about it being wool felt is that it could be re-shaped, with damp and steam. The brim of it was upturned and tripped with a yard of black plush fake-fur. I removed that – oh, I have plans for that narrow strip of plush fake-fur, but that will be another project entirely.
- I “dented” in the crown of the hat to make it narrower, and eventually trimmed off the wired edge of the brim – reusing the wire by zig-zag stitching it about 1/4 inch from the new edge and steaming it relatively flat
- I sewed a length of 1 1/2 inch grograin ribbon on the inside, and another along the wired brim, to hide the wire and cover the edge of the brim.
- Ribbon turned to the outside, with a line of gathering along the edge, pinned and steamed into place before stitching.
- I seamed the ends together, and made a line of gathering stitches on a length of 6-8 inch wide gathered lace, pinned and tacked it along the top of the hat crown, so that the lace edge overlapped the hat brim.
- A detail of this stage, with the lace attached, showing the ribbon-trimmed edge.
- A 3-yard length of tulle – seamed the long ends together to make a long tube, gathered the seam, pinned and tacked it around the crown, leaving the open ends of the tulle tube to the front.
- Just to one side of the front, I attached two small black feather plumes, and tacked the tulle over it.
- The finished hat, with three red peonies attached slightly to the left of the point where the tulle was attached.
And no – not by any means are these authentic Edwardian lace, tulle or trimmings; this is not meant to be a historical reenactor costume, but something eye-catching and splashy, made with materiel readily available at ordinary retail outlets. It took about two and a half hours, all told. The finished suit itself won’t be anything particularly authentic, either – grey polyester suiting, so as to look good and relatively wrinkle-free on those occasions when we have to set up, and haul tubs of books around.
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